Once you get to UlaanBaatar (UB), just like any city, there is the initial shock of trying to figure out the quirks of the place. Where things are; how to get there; should we drive or walk? Every wanderer wrestles with these questions when they get to a new destination, and we were no exception. The solution: just jump in and sort it out later!
So that’s what we did. Our friends hooked us up with their housekeeper to take us around as a guide for part of the day, which eased us into the hustle and bustle of the strangely frenetic capital city.
Taking a stroll around UB presents certain challenges for those of us accustomed to the usual niceties of Western European and Japanese traffic customs. Namely, laws and rules seem to have little to no impact on drivers. Lanes, stop signs, crosswalks, traffic lights, parking lot markings, etc are all treated as mere suggestions rather than silly things like laws. Right of way is given to the bravest or most forceful, suggesting that Mongolia is still somewhat of a Wild West of the Asian continent. This particular quirk of UB culture would not be too daunting if not for the presence of a 4 year old child whose sense of direction, speed, and spatial awareness tend to be unreliable on the best of days. Needless to say, the combination of being in a new city, chaotic traffic, and a spastic 4 year old Viking child made for a mildly stressful first experience walking around town.
The walk served as a great introduction to the UB experience, despite the occasional minor heart attack from close encounters with the local traffic. We were shown around by a local our friends introduced us to and that proved extremely helpful as we had no idea how to get anywhere.
The morning took us to the Mongolian capital building, an impressive structure that appeared more welcoming than I pictured for a former outpost of Soviet communism. Unfortunately, we did not have the opportunity to explore the interior to see if the feeling continued. Thanks to the large public square so commonly found in front of national capitals, especially formerly Communist ones, we did get a respite from the chaotic traffic and had a chance to release the little one to run about a bit. This also gave the adults a chance to catch their breath away from the car exhaust and get their bearings, not that it mattered too much as we had no idea what our destination was or where it was located.
Why am I telling you this? For anyone only accustomed to traveling in the developed world, the experience of going to the developing world can be a bit of a shock. I’m including myself in this. Mongolia was my first experience in the developing world and in many ways, it was great. But one of the keys to successful wandering is to actually get out and wander. Don’t be confined to a schedule. Don’t just take the canned tour. Break out of your comfort zone and stretch the legs while dodging insane traffic. Because that’s one of the best ways to learn a city, a culture, or a people. If all you do is look out the window of the tour bus or hang out with the expats, you’ll never get any real sense of a place. Of course you’re also less likely to get run over, but that’s a different issue!
Stay tuned for more details of our wander in UB!
Wander on!
Rob
*Photo Note: always check to see is the logo on your hat is straight. Unless you’re going for outdoorsie thug look…
**all photos by Rob Vanderbloemen


